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Not randomly. Freezes happen where plumbing meets cold air with no heat exchange: exterior walls, unheated spaces, and anywhere air leaks onto a line. Canyon-mouth and Wasatch Back homes hit freezing conditions the valley floor never sees. If you’re in Cottonwood Heights, Park City, or Heber, read this list twice. Roof ice is its own problem, see the ice dam prevention guide.
Kitchen and bath lines in outside walls, the #1 freeze site. Insulate the cavity or open cabinets on cold nights.
Lines through garages, attics, rim joists, and cantilevered floors freeze first. Foam sleeves are cheap; heat tape where sleeves can’t reach.
Disconnect hoses by Halloween, a connected hose traps water that freezes back into the wall. Frost-free bibs fail too when hoses stay on.
Closed doors and setback thermostats create cold pockets. Keep interior doors open and the whole envelope at 55°F minimum.
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Open cabinet doors on plumbing walls. Let the faucet farthest from the meter run a pencil-lead drip, moving water resists freezing and relieves pressure if ice forms. Keep the garage door closed, interior doors open, and don’t set the thermostat back that night. All free, all effective.
No torches, ever. Shut water to that line (or the main), open the served faucet, and warm the area gently, hair dryer, space heater at a distance. Freezing often splits pipe that only leaks on thaw, so watch it and have a plumber check. If it’s already burst: the burst pipe page has the full protocol, and the number at the top of this page has a human on it.
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Keep your phone nearby. If water is still spreading, shut off the main valve now, it’s usually in the basement or crawl space, on the street-facing wall.