Monsoon season across the Wasatch. If a cloudburst is putting water in your home, call:
(435) 239-3134
90-minute on-site guaranteeFree inspectionsFree leak detection24/7 emergency responseFull insurance claim management90-minute on-site guaranteeFree inspectionsFree leak detection24/7 emergency responseFull insurance claim management
Home
/
Services
/
Water damage restoration
/
Appliance and water heater leak cleanup
Water damage restoration · 24/7

Appliance and water heater leak cleanup in the Salt Lake Valley & Park City, Utah

Water heaters, dishwashers, washing machines and refrigerator lines fail quietly, often into a cabinet base or subfloor that hides the damage for weeks.

IICRC certified firm
Licensed & insured in Utah
Direct insurance billing
★★★★★on Google
Standing water and electricity share your basement.
Before anyone wades in: if outlets, cords, or the panel are anywhere near the water, kill power to the basement at the breaker, or leave it alone and tell us when you call. No basement is worth a shock injury.
What’s included

The whole job, spelled out

  • Truck-mounted and submersible extraction, any depth, any hour
  • Cause triage: sump failure, snowmelt, window well, sewer backup, supply line
  • Contents move-out, inventory, and salvage triage (what dries, what goes)
  • Carpet, pad, and flooring assessment, honest calls, documented with photos
  • Structural drying with air movers and dehumidifiers, monitored daily to dry standard
  • Antimicrobial treatment where category or duration requires it
  • Full Xactimate documentation and direct insurance billing
Cost & insurance

The honest version

A dishwasher that leaked for an hour and a water heater that emptied its tank into a finished basement are different jobs by an order of magnitude. What moves the number: how long the leak ran before anyone noticed, how far it traveled into cabinets and subfloor, and whether the water needs sanitizing. Appliance and water heater failures are usually a covered claim, so your real cost is typically your deductible, because we bill the insurer directly.

Utah cost guide, with real ranges →
When to call
  • Water is still rising, or you can’t find the source
  • Any depth over carpet or finished flooring
  • The water might involve the sewer or floor drain
  • It sat more than a day, or there’s any musty smell
What not to DIY
  • Don’t run a household shop-vac against inches of water, you’ll lose, slowly
  • Don’t run fans if there’s any chance it’s sewage, that aerosolizes contamination
  • Don’t rip out carpet before it’s photographed and documented, you’re removing claim evidence
  • Don’t assume dry-to-the-touch means dry, pad and subfloor hold water for weeks
Why it happens

Why appliances and heaters leak

Supply lines, valves and tank seals all age on the same schedule, and most of them sit out of sight. The usual causes:

Water heater tank rust

Corrosion opens the tank floor and the full tank empties out.

Supply line failure

A braided or plastic line lets go and runs until someone shuts it off.

Dishwasher leaks

A tired door gasket or drain hose wets the cabinet base first.

Washing machine hoses

Hoses fail under constant pressure, often part way through a cycle.

Refrigerator ice lines

A small line behind the fridge seeps for weeks into the flooring.

Relief valve seepage

A weeping relief or drain valve keeps the pan and floor damp.

Old shutoff valves

Valves seize or weep, and the fitting behind them gives way.

Same-age appliances

Units installed together tend to reach end of life together.

Before you go down there

The risks, and what not to do

Appliance water is Category 2, carrying detergent, food waste and bacteria, and it pools next to power. Treat it as a hazard until it is assessed.

The real hazards

  • Electrical shock from outlets, cords, and the panel
  • Bacteria and viruses if the water is gray or from a sewer
  • Mold in finished walls and framing within about 48 hours
  • Furnace, water heater, and electrical panel damage
  • Hidden debris and unstable footing under the water

Please do not

  • Enter standing water that may be touching power
  • Use a household or shop vacuum on more than a trace
  • Run the furnace or HVAC while the basement is wet
  • Assume the water is clean; when in doubt, stay out
  • Wait for it to recede on its own; damage compounds hourly
If the water reached the panel or the furnace, cut power at the main only if you can do it safely, then call. Our first-steps guide covers the rest, and a failing pump is worth reading about in the sump-pump guide.
The High-Water Line

What happens when you call

Call
A real person answers 24/7, not a call center.
Assess
Thermal imaging and moisture mapping find everything that’s wet.
Extract & dry
Water out and drying equipment placed on the same visit.
Document & bill insurance
Every reading logged. We bill your insurer directly.
Prevent the next one

What we recommend for future prevention

Braided steel lines

Swap rubber or plastic supply lines for braided steel.

Pan and drain line

Set the water heater in a pan plumbed to a drain.

Water leak sensors

Cheap sensors behind the washer and under the sink catch drips.

Replace on age

Change a heater and its hoses on age, not after they fail.

FAQ

Questions we hear

How fast can you get someone out for an appliance or water heater leak?
A real person answers 24/7 and we're on-site within 90 minutes anywhere we serve, ready to pull the appliance, check the subfloor, and start drying the same visit.
Can the cabinet base or subfloor be saved?
Often, if we catch it fast: subfloor and cabinet material can hold water for weeks before it shows, so early action matters. We pull the toe kick or cabinet base to check underneath and give you an honest, item-by-item call with photos.
Why did my water heater or appliance leak with no warning?
Usually age: tank rust, a worn supply line, a tired gasket, or a seized shutoff valve all fail on the same rough timeline as the unit itself. We confirm the source so you know what to replace, not just what to dry.
Is water from an appliance leak dangerous?
It's Category 2, carrying detergent, food residue, or bacteria depending on the source, and it often pools near outlets or a panel. We check for electrical risk before anyone works in the area.
Can I clean it up myself?
For a small, fresh puddle, carefully, maybe. Once it's soaked into a cabinet base or subfloor, a towel and a fan won't reach it, and leaving moisture in place is how a small leak turns into mold.
Will insurance cover an appliance or water heater leak?
A sudden failure, a burst tank or a supply line that let go, is usually covered. Gradual leaks from long-term neglect can be denied. We document when and how it happened so your claim is built right, see the Utah claims guide.
Not an emergency?

We’ll call you back.

Tell us what happened and a real person, not a scheduler, calls you within 5 minutes, day or night.

24/7
A human answers
5 min
Callback promise

When you submit, our on-call team gets a text instantly. You'll get a confirmation text right away.

Got it. We’re calling you within 5 minutes.

Keep your phone nearby. If water is still spreading, shut off the main valve now, it’s usually in the basement or crawl space, on the street-facing wall.

Oops! Something went wrong while submitting the form.

Water emergency right now?

Don’t wait for a crew from across the county. Two local teams, on call.

CALL 24/7 (385) 354-5813